To successfully breed betta fish at home, you need to focus on four key aspects: breeding tank setup, broodstock selection, breeding process management, and fry care. The specific steps are as follows:
I. Breeding Tank Setup
Tank Selection
Choose a properly sized breeding tank, ideally one that is 30–40 cm (12–16 inches) long, 20–30 cm (8–12 inches) wide, and 20–25 cm (8–10 inches) tall. The tank should be relatively quiet and isolated to minimize external disturbances.
Water Quality Adjustment
Maintain the water temperature between 26–28°C (79–82°F), as this range is optimal for betta breeding and egg hatching.
Keep the pH level between 6.5–7.2 and water hardness between 4–8 dGH. Use a water conditioner to adjust the water to the appropriate pH and hardness.
Allow the water to sit in the breeding tank for 2–3 days in advance. This helps evaporate chlorine and stabilize the water temperature.
Tank Decoration
Line the bottom of the tank with a 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 inch) layer of dark substrate, such as black or brown fine sand, to facilitate egg-laying.
Add aquatic plants like Anubias or Java Moss. These provide hiding spots and egg-laying surfaces for the bettas. Secure the plants to the tank bottom or walls using fine fishing line or small clips.
Cover the tank with a transparent lid, as bettas have a tendency to jump out. Leave small air holes in the lid to ensure good air circulation inside the tank.
II. Broodstock Selection
Health Criteria
Select healthy, adult bettas with large body sizes and vibrant colors as broodstock:
Males: 4–8 months old, with intact, broad fins, rich coloration, and a strong build.
Females: 3–6 months old, with slightly swollen bellies (a sign of sexual maturity and potential egg development).
Avoid Inbreeding
Inbred bettas are prone to genetic defects, which can compromise the health of their offspring.
III. Breeding Process Management
Courtship and Bubble Nest Building
First, place the selected female in the breeding tank to let her acclimate to the environment.
Add the male to the tank 1–2 days later. Upon introduction, the male will start chasing the female—this is a courtship behavior. He will display his bright colors and broad fins, swimming in a dance-like manner to attract the female.
Observe the female’s response: if she responds to the male without showing obvious avoidance or aggression, they are likely ready to breed.
After successful courtship, the male will begin building a bubble nest using bubbles and saliva. He will swim to the water surface, take in air, and blow out small bubbles that stick together to form a floating nest. Nest-building can take several hours or even a full day.
Spawning and Fertilization
Once the nest is built, the male will guide the female under the nest, and the female will start laying eggs. She deposits the eggs into the bubble nest, while the male fertilizes them nearby. Spawning can last several hours, with the number of eggs ranging from dozens to hundreds—depending on the female’s size and health.
Egg Protection and Broodstock Handling
After spawning and fertilization, the male takes on the responsibility of protecting the eggs. He will pick up any fallen eggs with his mouth and place them back into the bubble nest. Over the next 2–3 days, he will guard the nest constantly, repairing it to prevent eggs from falling out and chasing away any creatures (including the female) that approach the nest. For this reason, it is best to remove the female from the tank at this stage to avoid being attacked by the male.
IV. Fry Care
Hatching and Feeding
Newly hatched fry are transparent and have a yolk sac. They will cluster under the bubble nest and cannot swim yet, relying on the yolk sac for nutrition.
Once the fry have mostly absorbed their yolk sacs, start feeding them. Initially, offer tiny live food like baby brine shrimp or paramecia. Feed 3–4 times a day, giving only as much as the fry can eat within a few minutes.
As the fry grow, gradually introduce larger food such as small daphnia or specialized fry food.
Water Quality Management
Keep the water clean by performing regular water changes. Replace 1/4 to 1/3 of the water each time, and ensure the temperature difference between the new water and tank water does not exceed 2°C (3.6°F).