After betta fish spawn, targeted measures should be taken based on the breeding stages (from spawning to hatching, and from hatching to fry independence) to ensure the smooth hatching of eggs and the healthy growth of fry. Below is a detailed operational guide:
I. Stage 1: From Spawning to Hatching (0-48 Hours)
Isolate the Parent Fish
Betta fish have an egg-eating habit. Immediately after spawning, remove the male and female bettas and raise them separately.
This prevents the parent fish from eating the eggs due to stress or hunger.
Maintain Stable Water Quality
Temperature: Keep it at 26-28°C (79-82°F) and use a heater for precise temperature control.
Dissolved Oxygen: Increase oxygen levels with an air pump or sponge filter to avoid egg hypoxia.
Water Cleanliness: Avoid water changes. If water quality deteriorates, add a small amount of aged water (same temperature as the original tank water).
Light and Shelter
Provide soft diffused light to prevent direct strong light from spoiling the eggs.
Place aquatic plants or duckweed in the breeding tank to shelter the eggs and reduce external disturbances.
Monitor Egg Condition
Healthy eggs are transparent or pale yellow, with visible black eye spots in fertilized ones.
White or cloudy eggs are unfertilized or dead. Remove them promptly with a pipette to prevent water contamination.
II. Stage 2: From Hatching to Fry Independence (3-7 Days)
First Feeding for Fry
Day 1: Fry start swimming 24-48 hours after hatching. Feed them baby brine shrimp (live or frozen) or microworms—high in nutrition and easy to digest.
Alternative: If baby brine shrimp is unavailable, use egg yolk water (mix boiled egg yolk with water, strain before feeding). Change 1/3 of the water daily to avoid quality issues.
Feeding Frequency: 3-4 times a day, small portions each time to prevent leftover food from polluting the water.
Water Quality Management
Water Changes: Be extra cautious during this stage. Change 1/4 of the water weekly with aged, same-temperature water.
Filtration: Use a sponge filter to avoid strong water flow sweeping away the fry.
Ammonia Control: Test water regularly and change water immediately if ammonia levels exceed safe limits.
Environment Optimization
Density Control: Keep no more than 10 fry per liter of water to prevent stunted growth from overcrowding.
Shelter: Retain aquatic plants or duckweed to provide hiding spots for fry and reduce fighting.
Disease Prevention
Check fry for white spots, blood streaks, or abnormal swimming. Isolate and treat affected fish promptly (e.g., methylene blue for fungal infections).
Avoid overfeeding to prevent enteritis caused by indigestion.
III. Post-Independence Care for Fry
Separate Tanks by Size
When fry grow to 1-2 cm (0.4-0.8 inches), separate them into different tanks by size to prevent larger fry from bullying smaller ones.
Gradually increase feeding amounts after separation and transition to regular betta food.
Continuous Water Monitoring
Change 1/3 of the water weekly, maintaining a pH level of 6.5-7.5 and moderate water hardness.
Clean filter sponges regularly to prevent clogging.
Behavior Observation
Fry may chase each other, which is normal territorial behavior. Ensure no severe injuries occur.
If fry frequently surface for air, increase oxygen supply immediately.
IV. Important Notes
Minimize Disturbances: Reduce activity around the tank during breeding to avoid stressing parent fish or fry.
Track Growth: Take photos or measure fry length regularly to monitor development.
Be Patient: It takes 3-6 months for bettas to mature from eggs to adults. Consistent attention to water quality and nutrition is key.
Following these steps will significantly improve betta breeding success and produce healthy, active fry. For first-time breeders, observe 1-2 breeding cycles to gain experience before scaling up.