Caring for betta fish requires attention to multiple aspects such as environment setup, feeding, water quality management, health monitoring, and breeding care. Below are detailed tips to help you care for betta fish scientifically:
I. Environment Setup
Fish Tank Selection
Solitary Housing is Preferred: Betta fish have a strong sense of territory, and male bettas tend to fight with each other, so solitary housing is recommended. If community housing is necessary, choose fish of similar size and gentle temperament (such as guppies or tetras), and ensure the tank is large enough (at least 40 liters or more).
Space Requirements: For solitary housing, the tank capacity is recommended to be 5-10 liters to provide sufficient swimming space. Avoid using small round tanks (such as bowl-shaped containers), as they easily cause distorted vision and increased stress for betta fish.
Hiding Spot Setup: Place aquatic plants, driftwood, or special decorations to provide betta fish with places to hide and rest, reducing stress responses.
Water Temperature Control
Suitable Range: 24-28°C, with a daily temperature fluctuation of no more than 2°C. A temperature that is too low (below 20°C) will slow down the betta fish’s metabolism and reduce its immunity; a temperature that is too high (above 30°C) may cause oxygen deficiency or diseases.
Heating Equipment: Use an adjustable heating rod and cooperate with a thermometer for real-time monitoring to ensure stable water temperature.
Water Quality Management
pH Level: 6.5-7.5 is appropriate; avoid extreme acidic or alkaline environments.
Hardness (GH/KH): Soft water (GH < 8°dH) is better. For hard water, adjust it using water softening resin or rainwater.
Water Change Frequency: Change 1/3 to 1/2 of the water every week, using tap water that has been left to stand (to remove chlorine) or purified water. When changing water, avoid directly splashing it on the fish; use a dropper to inject the new water slowly.
II. Feeding Tips
Food Selection
Staple Food: Specialized betta fish food (pellets or flakes), which is rich in protein and vitamins.
Live Bait: Brine shrimp, bloodworms, daphnia, etc. These can enhance the betta fish’s body color and vitality, but they need to be disinfected (such as soaking in potassium permanganate) to avoid parasites.
Freeze-Dried Food: Serves as a substitute for live bait, easy to store and nutritionally balanced.
Feeding Frequency
Juvenile Fish: 2-3 times a day, with a small amount each time (to be eaten within 5 minutes).
Adult Fish: Once a day or every other day; avoid overfeeding, which may lead to obesity or water quality deterioration.
Notes: If the betta fish refuses to eat, it may be a sign of water quality problems or illness, and timely inspection is required.
III. Health Monitoring and Disease Prevention
Daily Monitoring
Activity Status: Healthy betta fish swim actively with fully expanded fins; if the fins are clamped, the fish stays at the bottom of the tank, or it surfaces for air frequently, it may be sick or the water quality may be poor.
Body Surface Inspection: Check for abnormalities such as white spots, fin rot, or redness, and isolate and treat the fish in a timely manner.
Common Diseases and Treatment
Ich (White Spot Disease): Caused by ichthyophthirius multifiliis, characterized by white spots on the body. Raising the water temperature to 30°C and adding salt (0.5 grams of sea salt per liter of water) can alleviate the symptoms; for severe cases, medications such as ich treatment solutions are needed.
Fin Rot: Caused by poor water quality or bacterial infection, leading to rotting of the fins. Change 1/3 of the water, add salt, and use medications like yellow powder or antibiotics for treatment.
Enteritis: Caused by overfeeding or contaminated food, characterized by abdominal distension and abnormal excrement. Stop feeding for 2-3 days, and feed furazolidone or allicin for conditioning.
Prevention Measures
Change water and clean filter media regularly to keep the water clean.
Avoid moving the tank frequently or scaring the betta fish to reduce stress.
New fish must be quarantined and observed for 1-2 weeks before being added to the main tank to ensure they are disease-free.
IV. Breeding Care
Breeding Conditions
Water Temperature: 26-28°C, with slightly soft water (GH < 6°dH).
Environment: Place floating aquatic plants or bubble nest substrates in the tank for the male fish to build nests.
Parent Fish Selection: Choose healthy adult betta fish with bright body colors (males are about 6 months old, females are about 4 months old).
Breeding Process
Nest Building: After the male fish blows bubbles to build a nest, it will attract the female fish for mating.
Spawning: After the female fish lays eggs, the male fish will hold the eggs in its mouth and spit them into the bubble nest. The female fish must be removed in a timely manner (to avoid being attacked by the male fish).
Hatching: The eggs take 24-48 hours to hatch. During this period, keep the water temperature stable and avoid direct strong light.
Fry Care
First Food: 3 days after hatching, the fry start to swim, and can be fed brine shrimp nauplii or egg yolk water.
Water Quality Maintenance: Change 1/5 of the water every day to keep the water clean.
Tank Separation: When the fry grow to 1 centimeter, they need to be separated into different tanks to avoid fighting.
V. Other Notes
Avoid Over-Decoration: Excessive decorations in the tank may scratch the betta fish’s fins; choose decorations made of smooth materials.
Light Control: Provide 8-10 hours of light every day to promote body color development, but avoid prolonged direct strong light.
Seasonal Adjustments: Strengthen heat preservation in winter and pay attention to cooling in summer (such as using a fan or ice packs).
Interaction Tips: Betta fish can be trained with a mirror to enhance their vitality, but each training session should not exceed 5 minutes to avoid overstimulation.